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Saturday, February 8, 2014

Flowers, Water, Libraries and Improv

I realized today that the title of my blog was more than incorrect in the creative license way that I intended...Cuentos is what I meant to write, not cuentas, that´s like ¨you tell¨. The rest of the incorrectness was intentional...since my name is Celine Bean, therefore I am an UNA, feminine, even though Frijoles are ¨¨los¨¨ (are those quotation marks?, I cannot tell)
<I´m not entired certain of this keyboard!" ahhh that´s the quotation mark! Foreign keyboards are always fun to navigate Ñ=! that´s a smiley face!

Since I wrote you all last, let´s see...

I took a stroll from the house I´m staying at to the center of town, and found myself in the midst of beautiful outdoor gardens in between apartment homes. It´s the rainy season down here, though technically it is summer, but it makes all the flowers bloom and the mountains green, it really is an incredible site.

A few things to get used to:

1. The smog, any time driving anywhere or on the bus, uhhh the exhaust is terrible. I really should have brought that mouth-nose cover you gave me Marta! I forgot to pack it! Although I feel like I´d look a little ridiculous walking around with it on. Weighing the pros & cons: look like a ridiculous foreigner and have respitory health, blend in (not really because I am a ridiculous foreigner) and have trouble breathing. I think I´ll try a little bit of both and see how it goes....

2. Remembering to throw the toilet paper in the bin next to the toilet, not in the toilet, AND remembering to take along toilet paper in my pocket or bag when I leave the house to any public places. most places don´t have paper for you, you need to bring your own, or get really good at the Shakira shake or the Beyonce bounce, really up to you which one you prefer. For me, I use both, it´s much more effective, covers all your bases.

3. And drinking water---it´s amazing how much water I feel I ingest or feel the need to ingest compared to others here. It´s a product of growing up in a culture where water is always available and easily accessible. Here in Cusco we boil the water, not because of micro organisms in the water, but more because it has really high levels of Chlorine in it. Since you have to boil it first (an extra step to drinking it) then let it cool, it really makes you aware of how much you drink, and how much we need to value each drop of drinkable water. It worries me about California and the drought we´ve been in. It´s interesting to think that it won´t even be a matter of dirty water that you have to boil, but a matter of no water at all.

In other news...
At the end of my walk to town, I found the Biblioteca! (the library)! Many of you know how much I love libraries, and for those of you that don´t...Well, I LOVE libraries. Some people travel to a place to see the churches, go to the shops and buy cool trinkets, see famous statues, and I like to find the libraries. Ñ) smiley face again.
It´s really a pretty library, La Biblioteca Municipalidad, and I found a room of windows in the back where people were studying all at this big long table, so I pulled out my Spanish study materials and my markers and paper and commenced studying as well. It was lovely. quiet, silent individual time amongst other peers. I really enjoy that kind of thing.

After my library enjoyment I went on a mission to find a new wallet, which I found! woohoo! Despues, I people watched in the Plaza de Armas, looking up at La Catedral! I watched teenage girls in different outfits model for a photographer and dance near the fountain, Argentinians selling food on a platter, little kids trying to polish shoes that didnt need polishing, and I met a Brazilian whose Spanish was worse than mine and made me feel super capable! hah.

After my centro adventure I returned home to cook a semi-Italian meal for the family I´m staying with. Earlier I had gone to the market to pick up vegetables and pasta and cheese and such. I made a salad with cranberries and almonds I´d brought from Chico, and a big pasta with sauteed onions, tomatoes, bell peppers spinach, garlic etc. It turned out pretty tasty. We even had some white wine to go along with it!
Afterwards I taught Guillermo how to play Gin Rummy, mas o menos, seeing as I don´t know the exact rules but we had fun anyways. We played cards while we attempted to jailbreak-unlock my old phone on his computer. It´s halfway there, soon I´ll (hopefully be able to use here as a Peruvian phone!)

This morning I went to an Improv group here at a performance space in a wonderful woman´s home, her name is Dalia. She teaches groups of Improv and other teatro groups. It was hilarious and SO much fun. I can say I successfully (more or less) did improv in Spanish! The other players were great and lots of fun, and we made up some pretty silly scenes. It makes me really excited to get more involved in the arts-performance scene here in Cusco, and in Peru in general. Dalia and I also talked about the possibility of me offering a workshop or doing a performance at the space there, so Í´m excited to follow up on that and see what possibilities there are!

That´s all for now folks! I´m going now to catch my 2nd bus (this time very carefully) to go to Guillermo´s family´s reunion-going away party for him!

Chao! hasta pronto!

Wednesday, February 5, 2014

Churches, Sacred Plants, Robberies and Rats

UN DIA (o mas como 4 dias) EN MI VIDA AQUI...

I almost forgot how much can be packed in to one day when you're traveling. I suppose it's also true when you're at home, but in a new place there's more incentive to do, see, explore as much as possible.
Today was quite a day. Involving church, sacred plants, a robbery and a rat on a string.

Well I'll begin a little bit before all that though to orientate you all--I arrived here on Sunday. All the the flight(s) down here went well, albeit interesting and full of the word "demorado" (delayed). But, for whatever reason I felt great (tired, but great) when I arrived in Peru, after a 3 day journey of double redeyes. The flight to LA was easy. The flight to Miami was good, I slept, read a little, listened to some music, but mostly slept which is good because it was an overnighter! We dropped down in Miami at around 7am. There I experienced probably the most boring, and uninteresting & non-resourceful airport ever. But I met a very nice Peruvian who lives in Miami now but was going back to visit family and a very funny Quebecian man who taught me all about the new technology of "fablets". He swore they are the next big thing. Pretty cool :) The Peruvian became my friend and helped me out Grandly once we arrived in Lima.
On the flight to Lima I sat next to a Peruvian man and his mother who both turned out to be amazing, wonderful, sweet sweet people. They both manage a school in Lima, and we now have plans for me to go to the school (it's like an elementary school) and perform stories and do a presentation/class with the kids in English. They said they are always looking for more English programs for the kids. So that's pretty dang awesome! They also said I can stay with them when I'm back in Lima, which will likely be in March sometime. And now I have a project to work on--to put together a program for the kids!
So I arrived in Lima at about 11pm Saturday night. I tried to check-in to my national flight but they told me I couldn't check in until 3:30am. Alrighty then. I took out my sleeping bag and pillow and layed it down on the floor in as out of the way spot as possible and tried to sleep. It was pretty comical---I had my Panda bear stuffed animal over my eyes to cover the light and was on the floor amidst this airport area (that was open to the public because I didn't know I could go upstairs where it would have been much nicer!) and I kept hearing people passing by say "Mira! Mira!" Que chistoso, how funny :)
And then! Right when I was starting to fall asleep, a man's voice, "Senorita, por favor, Ven aca. Estamos limpiando el piso". They were doing their nightly cleaning. I packed up everything (groggily) and moved up to where they'd moved all the chairs about 10 feet in front of where I had been before. Again, I lay on the floor and began to doze off, only to wake up about 15 minutes later to find all the chairs and people that had been surrounding me back 10 feet behind me again. Ay dios mio! They now needed to clean where I was sleeping AGAIN. Back again to my original spot and I finally asked a woman if I could stay there or if I was going to have to move in 15 minutes. She smiled and said, "esta bien, esta limpia ahora". It's fine, it's clean now. Wow, thank goodness the floor where I'm going to sleep for the next 3 hours is clean. Phew.

Long winded story but I eventually was able to check-in, then go upstairs and go through security only to find that most all of the food places were back before security and I couldnt go back, and my plane ended up being 4 hours delayed. Every 30 minutes they'd say, "Due to weather conditions in Cusco, we cannot board the plane yet, we will be back with you with more information in 30 minutes". Every 30 minutes for 4 hours. Until finally we boarded! And all was well. And it was worth the wait. They served us breakfast and tea de coca, and the view---WOW, que bonito! over the Andes, over Central highlands into the Sacred Valley. So beautiful. 

I've been in Cusco now for the last 4 days. The first few days I haven't done a whole lot, I met Guillermo's (my friend I'm staying with) family, we're staying at his sister's house and they are absolutely WONDERFUL gente (people). We had lunch with his parents on the first day, and then I slept a lot :). The next night we went out to meet some of his friends in el centro de Cusco y I tried the Peruvian drink "Pisco Sour", mmmm delicioso! We then went to a different place where they served us a drink of 20 plants in a vase that had the head of a "cuy" (guinea pig), se llama "Inkaria", supposedly a drink of the Incas, but I think ours was mixed with some Sprite ;). El bebido un poco menos fuerte del los Incas.
After that we went to anooother place where there was live music!! it was beautiful. We only got to see the last song but it was soooo worth it. And then the place turned into a discoteca, so naturally we had to dance for hours, until we remembered that we needed to eat dinner and went to have a "traditional Peruvian dish" of french fries and mini hotdogs...maybe traditional Peruvian borracho food--drunk food :).

Bueno. Hoy! Today!
Fue muy interesante. It was the first day where I really explored the city. The day began at 6 am. Guillermo's sister Crishna took me to see La Catedral, the big famous church in the center of Cusco. From 7-9am you can go for Mass/services with the locals and you don't have to pay as a tourist. I prefer to go to churches this way anyways. So we went for the mass, but mostly just walked around, until they started to play on this Massive organ like instrument, muy fuerte el sonido.
We walked up through plazas and to two other churches. I've always liked churches, and their different styles and decorations and feels to them. Today I felt especially strange looking up at the big images and sculptures of Jesus, Mary, the disciples, etc. They felt incredibly austere and frightening, (more than usual!) I just couldn't help but think how abusive and colonizing these figures were for the people during the time of the Conquistadors and religious leaders coming to take over the region. It felt super ironic to see men and women praying to these "gods", these saints, these images of power--of the same power that overtook their culture and life as they knew it then. I read somewhere that some (or one) of the churches had mirrors decorated all over because the reflections and shinyness would entice the indigenous peoples to come in to the church.
It's interesting to me though, how religion comes about in a culture. Because many people today don't associate the religion with something that came from elsewhere--just as we don't think about that at home (well some of us, and sometimes yes). It's just part of who you are, how you grew up, what you know.

Anyways, after the churches Crishna y yo fuimos a un mercado and we drank fresh juices and ate tamales for breakfast. They have tamales dulces here that are sweet and the salgados ones had olives and something else I didn't recognize. I'd never seen that type of tamales before.
Despues, Crishna went to work, and I continued on to explore Cusco city. My first stop was unexpected but I found a courtyard to a school of the arts (Bellas Artes) and there were beautiful sculptures and paintings all around the edges of it. I found this gem of a quote on the wall there:
"Es preciso saber lo que se quiere; cuando se quiere, hay que tener el valor de decirlo, y cuando se dice, es menester tener el coraje de realizar."  --mas o menos I think it says, it's important to know what you want, once you know, you have to see the value in saying it, and when you say what you want, it's then important to have the courage to make it happen.

After that I walked a ways more and found el Templo y Convento de La Merced--a convent that has been turned into a museum with a beautiful garden with flowers and hummingbird, and old walls and paintings AND a big 22 kilo & 250 gram solid gold ornament that holds the "body of christ" for the altar---this piece has more than 1500 jewels in it and over something like 600 pearls, including the 2nd largest pearl in the world (the 1st is in Russia I think), and the pearl is shaped like a Mermaid. It's really quite a site.
From there I continued on my exploration and found the Museo de Plantas Sagradas, Magicas y Medicinales--The museum of Sacred, magical and medicinal plants where I learned all I could wish to know about Coca, Ayahuasca y muchas otras plantas that are used in ceremony, as healing and medicinal. Apparently Sigmund Freud used Coca for much of his career and wrote about its healing properties for a long time until there was a lot of controversy around it all. The most interesting was the indigenous usages of the Coca plant and how it is such a part of their culture. It's really a beautiful thing, but sad because there is such a prohibitionary status of it politically. (I'm sorry if my English grammar no is bueno, I've been speaking and thinking almost solely in Spanish these last 4 days).

So I left the Museum and went to change my money, then caught a bus back to the house for lunch. In the bus, there were lots of people. I had put my wallet in my jacket pocket in front with a zipper. My purse was in front of me. A group of three got on a ways down from where I got on and the two guys were behind me and the woman in front. I exchanged nice words with the woman, and felt a little funny that the one dude was standing really close but it was a packed bus so I didn't want to be rude, and I didn't think of it at the time. I had taken out 1 sole for to pay for the bus and the rest of my money and bank card and license and student ID were in my wallet in the pocket. After only a few stops the girl and guy got off--and I thought how strange that they would get on and get off only a few stops down. Again, didn't think of it since I was trying to figure out where I was supposed to be getting off too. Right before my stop I payed the bus guy, and went to step down and put my hand in my now OPEN pocket to put the change of the bus ride in my wallet---then NO. No esta!! my pocket was empty, just a receipt from the museum crumpled up still inside. I turned around not believing it, knowing right away who it had been that stole it, someone else on the bus asked me what was wrong and I told them someone stole my wallet! But I had to get off the bus, so I got off, sin wallet, sin dinero, con nada.
I ran back to the house and as I got to the door started crying, mostly from shock and frustration that I hadn't done things differently. Luckily, Guillermo and his family were so sweet and helpful and we cancelled my card, so all is alright. I lost about $50, but considering how much more I could have lost it's not so bad. And my expired student Ids, and my license, which I think I was due for a new one on my next birthday anyways.
But it's amazing how when something like that happens, it feels at first super surreal, and then you keep replaying it in your head, Ah! if only I had done that, or if only I had turned and asked him to move away, or had realized that when he had gotten that uncomfortably close he was being an asshole, and I shouldn't have said, oh pardon me!!!
Bueno, I hope he used the money well. And either needed it, or at least feels a little bit bad about it tonight (I doubt, but you never know about people). The shitty thing is, I was friendly with the woman, and she was part of it. And neither of them looked like they were in much need of money anyways. I guess you never can tell these things.

So as soon as my card was cancelled, Guillermo and I went to his friend's house for lunch. The food here is SO good by the way! I'm going to come home much heavier I'm thinking. It's rich and delicious and often heavy (it fills you up). There are many courses to meals. ahh que rico! it's bueno. We ate, then laughed and talked and went downstairs to his friend's photography studio and then his office. In the office they have a fake toy Rat that looks real! For whatever reason we all decided to put a string around the rat and put it in the gutter next to the sidewalk. The office is right on the street. Then we waited inside, one person on the lookout, the other in charge of string pulling, the other filming, and the others watching and laughing. We got a few people caught in the string and then they realized Rat! and tried kicking at it, but many of our attempts were fails. Then the police passed by adn we had to quickly retrack the rat inside. It was really a hilarious endeavor. Hah. si. que divertido.

And that was my day of churches, sacred plants, robberies and rats.
el jardin del convento del la merced


 Cosas de Coca de antes y ahora
 adentro del Museo de plantas sagradas--un exhibit de las culturas indigenas que usan las hojas de Coca para muchas cosas en la vida.
 Yo, con mis ultimos Soles--0.30 soles, 2.6 is $1, so it's poco poco! el cambio del autobus!
 una imagen adentro del convento de la merced
 parte del convento
 A very large crown, for who knows what reason, inside a prohibited section of the Convent
 The nutritional value of Coca in relation to other things like Spinach, Rice, Corn, etc...(it has serious nutritional value, and is actually a great alternative for malnourished individuals to get nutrition and stay somewhat healthy, or atleast, you know, alive.)
From the second floor of the convent, the garden and church in the background